Posts Tagged ‘friends’
Posted on July 5, 2010 - by Nadia
Day 31: July 4, 2010
Day off pedaling; hiked with Michael and Sarah into the Eagle Cap Wilderness
The town of Joseph is named for Tiwi teqis, Chief Joseph, the elder leader of the Wallawa Nez Perce and the man who declined the treaty modification that would have ceded all the Wallawa country to the United States. Pursued by U.S. soldiers, Tiwi Teqis, and then his son the younger Chief Joseph, led their people on a sad and terrible journey and retreat, north and east to Canada. Being in Joseph, seeing the stunning mountain lake country, and the high green pastures that he refused to cede, lends me a visceral sense of what drove him to take the stand he did against such overwhelming opposition. Here, he is celebrated during Chief Joseph Days (and rodeo) the third full week of July.
Downtown, the town of Joseph features flower boxes and bronze sculptures along a two-block stretch of shops, fly-fishing emporia and cafés. The town’s museum is as complete as any along my route save for that of Clayton, NM. A full room is devoted to telling the native perspective of the Nez Perce flight. Elsewhere, the early settlement of Joseph is detailed. Despite being surrounded by mining prospects, Joseph was an agricultural community founded initially, according to the woman at the museum, by ranchers who received permission from Chief Joseph to graze their horses on summer pasture.
Just west of town, the Hurricane Trail threads its way into the Eagle Cap Wilderness, the first wilderness designated under the federal Wilderness Act. The area is also home to several wild and scenic rivers or recreation corridors. The mountains here are steep, rising from about 4,500 feet to 9,500 feet, with creeks booming down jagged drainages, shooting off cliffs into gushing waterfalls. Glacial moraines form scenic lake Wallawa, which attracts boaters and anglers and sets the stage for summer resorts at the south end of the lake. This area is about seven hours drive from Missoula, but just four or so from Boise and most of the license plates here are from Idaho or Oregon.
a hike with plenty of vertical, up a drainage filled with the scrap wood and rubble of a violent spring runoff, we ate. Michael brought enough burgers and franks to feed an army and I did my best to put a dent in it. Our cabin at Flying Arrow Resort overlooks a rushing creek so we barbecued in all-American splendor. Then napped. Then drove to a widespot in the lakeside road to view a fireworks display that reflected in the lake and thundered off the mountains and was all in all a great capper to a weekend with friends.
Posted on June 20, 2010 - by Nadia
Day 16: June 19, 2010
Jesser to Roosevelt, Utah
Despite being fairly flat, this proved a tough slog through dryland ranching, oil and gas services country and Ute tribal lands.
John Andersen never figured federal stimulus dollars and tribal housing into his work plan, but if housing is your game these days, prefab is the name. “Absolutely nothing in residential construction is moving, anywhere. If you want work, it’s all about affordable housing,” he said.
Anderson, his daughter Ashleigh and son-in-law Tarry along with friends Merlin and Curtis, are doing finishing work on the installation of a couple of dozen prefab houses the Ute tribal council has purchased – sheet rocking, texturing, fixtures and touch-up paint. They all call Idaho home. For this work in Utah they’ve hauled a couple of trailers over and set up behind the Kody Athletic Club, a gravel parking pad with minimal amenities but the right price.
It is not the lifestyle to which Ashleigh is accustomed. She laughs at the chaos of her life with four men. Her dad gets the tiny bedroom, her husband the couch with the bars that bite into his back. She takes the floor. The bathroom leaves something to be desired for someone who puts some thought into her appearance. But they’ve got work and the right attitude to take care of each other and a stranger across the gravel.
When I pulled into the parking area behind Kody’s, I was pooped. I had come into Roosevelt after a traffic-riddled day on Hwy 40 and was so tired that I stopped at an intersection at a side street, forgot to unclip, and just fell over. Gravity was telling me it was time to stop. I was exhausted, chaffed, badly in need of a shower. A surly cashier at a convenience store pointed me to Kody’s with such insouciance that I wasn’t sure she really understood what I wanted.
I pulled in, couldn’t find anyone official to check with, so set up my tent on a stretch of gravel. Glancing at the neighborhood, it was easy to see that the entire collection of a dozen or so trailers here would cost about as much as just one of the opulent rigs with multiple pop outs, or the deluxe fifth wheels with their satellite dishes I’d seen at Montrose or Dinosaur Monument. Here, there were no hookups, no showers, no bathrooms, just a safe place to park for cheap. People were here to work, not to see the sites. These were mobile homes, not recreation vehicles.
I got my tent nailed into the gravel and went to see the neighborhood. I encountered Curtis, sitting in a plastic chair, holding a bundle of a clean clothes and a towel. His arms and head were coated in white dust. While we talked, Ashleigh and Tarry walked up, fresh showered and smiling.
“Better get over there, she’s just here for 15 minutes,” Ashleigh said. And after the briefest of introductions to me, Ashleigh said to me, “Go! Get your stuff! Tell her you’re will us!”
The shower at Kody’s Athletic Club was crisp, clean and restorative. Kitty the owner was a great exception to the rule of surely, suspicious people in this valley. She’s run the gym for a half dozen years and offers all high school students in the area free membership. “I try to make it easy for them to get in the habit early,” she said. She opens the locker rooms for the sheetrock crew after work because not showering after that work is unthinkable.
The shower brought me back to social, and I spent the most enjoyable night of my trip hearing about Ashleigh and Tarry and their four kids and seven baby burrowing owls, and John’s life as a teacher and coach before he escaped all that to build his dream house on the lake in Idaho. John supervised a hibachi conflagration of chicken and everyone fed the mosquitoes. Way later than my usual bedtime I hunkered down under a bright-as-the-sun spotlight and listened to my other neighbors laugh and talk quietly as upbeat and mellow Mexican pop tunes wafted through the tent.
As quick as a bad day turns good, strangers turn to friends. Thanks gang. I’ll see you down the road.