• Home
  • About
  • Who was Josie?
  • Who is Nadia?
  • Archives
Subscribe: Posts | Comments | E-mail
  • Travels with Josie

Travels with Josie

Posted on May 20, 2012 - by Nadia

2012 adventure starts in city of sin and splendor

Travels with Josie

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Port Townsend

Port Townsend was a port city of sin and splendor when Josephine “Josie” Keys White and her husband Elmer John White lived here in 1897 and 1898. Situated at the mouth of Puget Sound, it was a place for sailors to get drunk and captains to get new crews. EJ was a correspondent for Associated Press here when he reported on the arrival of gold from the Klondike in 1896. And it was over that winter that Elmer John and Josie decided that they, too, would follow the call of adventure. In April of 1898, EJ boarded a steamboat for Skagway, Alaska, and a job at the Skagway News. Josie followed, toddler in tow, in June.

So it is that tomorrow, I will load my kayak and follow in their weathered wake. The Inside Passage has spoken to me since I watched it slip by from the rail of an Alaskan Marine Highway Ferry when I was a sophomore in high school. I’ve paddled it a bit since and its layers of islands and curved passages has always called to me: Look around the next bend, and the next …

This trip continues my 2010 bicycle trip from Josie’s parents’ homestead in Kenton, Okla., to Sumner, Wash., where she went to visit her sister and ended up marrying EJ White.

While I did not party like a sailor in PT, I am as tired as one who had been crimped. I hope to come back and explain what rough and tumble towns Josied moved to with EJ. But for now, I have an adventure to start in the morning.

Thanks for tuning in.

 

 

 

 

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Port Townsend

Port Townsend was a port city of sin and splendor when Josephine “Josie” Keys White and her husband Elmer John White lived here in 1897 and 1898. Situated at the mouth of Puget Sound, it was a place for sailors to get drunk and captains to get new crews. EJ was a correspondent for Associated Press here when he reported on the arrival of gold from the Klondike in 1896. And it was over that winter that Elmer John and Josie decided that they, too, would follow the call of adventure. In April of 1898, EJ boarded a steamboat for Skagway, Alaska, and a job at the Skagway News. Josie followed, toddler in tow, in June.

So it is that tomorrow, I will load my kayak and follow in their weathered wake. The Inside Passage has spoken to me since I watched it slip by from the rail of an Alaskan Marine Highway Ferry when I was a sophomore in high school. I’ve paddled it a bit since and its layers of islands and curved passages has always called to me: Look around the next bend, and the next …

This trip continues my 2010 bicycle trip from Josie’s parents’ homestead in Kenton, Okla., to Sumner, Wash., where she went to visit her sister and ended up marrying EJ White.

Posted on March 9, 2012 - by Nadia

Travels with Josie focus of talk March 14

Travels with Josie

I’ll be giving a talk and slide show about Travels with Josie at the monthly meeting of the Rocky Mountaineers on Wednesday, March 14 at 7 p.m. at The Trailhead in Missoula. I’ll mostly focus on the bike trip portion, but will give an overview of the whole Travels with Josie project and talk about the next leg, which is scheduled to start May 20. If you’re in town and can make it, please come see how it turns out.

Posted on July 28, 2011 - by Nadia

Home again, home again, joggity, jog

Travels with Josie

Sun breaks through over Big Fork

Yellow Bay to Wayfarers State Park/Big Fork to Lakeside
Flathead Lake, Mont
July 28, 2011

I dreamed the bear came wearing flip flops: flap, flap, flap along the muddy trail to my tent. But it was the lake, as quiet as it gets, lapping at the shore outside my tent, telling me to wake up. The final day of my circumnavigation of Flathead Lake came down to a dash. I bundled my gear and was on the glassy bay outside of Big Fork shortly after first light. It was so calm that I went as the crow flies despite the distance. It is so far from shore to shore that the horizon bends mid crossing and a couple of miles toward the distant shore just disappeared – until I paddled into them, and then there’s miles to go before I rested.

Juvenile bald eagle gets busy

Less than halfway across the north end of Flathead Lake is the delta of the Flathead river. The water is murky and accumulated silt allows vegetation to grow well out into the lake. As I passed that archipelago of sticks this morning I saw two young bald eagle sitting. Just sitting. As I reached for my camera, an adult bald eagle swept down and rushed them out of their rest. From my perch, I understood the parent eagle to be moving those couch potato youngsters onto the day’s work, fishing. One young eagle took flight, met its parents with its own talons raised, then flew away. The other followed. I scrambled with my non-waterproof camera to capture any of that and fell well short.

And then the dot on shore I had hoped was Lakeside was. The trip was over, the boat loaded and the mystery of why the cockpit of my kayak smelled like a garbage dump left unresolved. The smell seemed to go away shortly after I got out of the boat. Hmmmm.

And on that note, it’s another work party at Hotel Albert. Come one come all, to work or play. Bring gloves, a tool box and a sense of adventure. I put my boat-tying-on skills to work at the lumber yard. I maxed out the recreational rack on my car with plywood and tied lots of fancy knots. A contractor guy driving through the lane next to me gave me a knowing up and down glance and slowed down and rolled down his window: “Great load,” he said.

On with the next adventure. Thanks for following. See you soon.

Posted on July 27, 2011 - by Nadia

Sweet rain and steady surf

Travels with Josie

Yellow Bay to Wayfarers State Park/Big Fork

Flathead Lake, Mont

July 27, 2011

By the time it started raining hard I had figured out how to ride the big swells pushing me toward Big Fork. The grimace I wore working yesterday’s cold, choppy following seas was replaced with a huge grin. I felt sorry for anyone stuck inside when such a warm rain was available to play in. Catching wave after wave I covered the distance from Wood Bay to Big Fork so quickly that I wasn’t done. I toured Big Fork and the Flathead delta area before calling it a day and pitching my tent between squalls.

The camp host informs me that the people at my site last night “smelled a bear.” “I just want you to be aware of that,” he said, repeating the story several times. What, exactly, am I supposed to do with this information? My food is all in the bear locker. I asked if he had bear spray I could borrow ( he didn’t,) and so I ponder the repetition and wonder at the difference between knowing there are bears in the area and knowing there is a bear in the area.

With that, I leave you. I hope to tackle the big crossing to Lakeside tomorrow morning early for the final leg of the trip. The rain prevented me from taking pictures. The battery life on this computer is calling for a short blog entry. Next adventure clearly requires some experiments with solar chargers.

Lessons from wind and waves
by Nadia on July 26, 2011
Wild Horse Island? That is no horse.
by Nadia on July 25, 2011
Seeking sea legs: A test paddle for the next installment
by Nadia on July 24, 2011
A slideshow of gratitude
by Nadia on December 28, 2010
Searching for Josie
by Nadia on July 16, 2010
Destination: Sumner!
by Nadia on July 13, 2010
« Older Entries
Josie's story Posts about places

Searching for Josie

July 15, 2010 Sumner wrap up Been here three days trying to verify Josie’s existence here, to get a sense of the place and its surround, the get a feel for EJ Whit. Vicki Connor at the Ryan House and the Heritage Quest Research Library on Main Street have been very helpful. SUMNER — Almost [...]

Posts about places

Day with the dead

Day 37: July 10, 2010 Pine Creek Resort to Nachez, Washington 80 miles Another scorcher of a day, ride was mostly downhill or flat after a five-mile climb to the summit on Hwy. 97. Despite dire warnings to the contrary, Hwy. 97 was fine to bike with little traffic and wide shoulders, though I started [...]

Josie's story Posts about places

Goldendale: Josie’s birthplace

Day 36: July 9, 2010 Goldendale to Pine Creek Bar and RV campground 15 miles The last noodle of common sense left in my noggin after yesterday’s heat advised me to stay off the road until today cooled down. I did that, pedaling just far enough to set myself up well for an early start [...]

Posts about places

The pits: From garbage to Goldendale

Day 35: July 8, 2010 Crow Butte State Park to the water tower woods above Goldendale, Washington 63 miles In which I climb out of the gorge and see some lovely country but suffer from heat exhaustion. I could see Roosevelt’s towering grain elevators almost from Crow Butte and expected your average shipping town. As [...]

View The Archives
  • Flickr Photos

  • Pages

    • About
    • Archives
    • Who is Nadia?
    • Who was Josie?
  • Join the ride: Comments

    • Andrea Dossett Sheya on Destination: Sumner!
    • Carol on Searching for Josie
    • Susan on Searching for Josie
    • Kath on Destination: Sumner!
    • dad on Is that homesick I smell?
  • Travelers' blogs

    • Beers & Gears
    • Dave, from Texas to NoCal
    • Endless Tides
    • Kathleen on horseback
    • Margaret's Bees in Princeton
  • Tag Cloud

    • Antonito bicycle Burley Colorado Colorado Platoro Conejos dairy Dinosaur drivers food friends Fruita Goldendale Greyhound Holbrook hot springs Idaho Joseph Josie kids log Montrose New Mexico Oklahoma Oregon Rangely Ranier river Rockies Roosevelt Stanley Sumner timber Toppenish train travel travelers Utah Vernal Washington winery Yakima
  • Categories

    • Josie's story
    • log
    • People along the way
    • Posts about Nadia's trip
    • Posts about places
    • Travelogue
    • Travels with Josie
  • Inner workings

    • Log in
    • Entries RSS
    • Comments RSS
    • WordPress.org
© 2012 Travels with Josie - Nadia White's travels in the spirit of Josephine White
The Papercut theme by WooThemes - Premium Wordpress Themes